The first summer Geoff and I were invited to our friends’ summer cottage in Eastham, I imagined it would be a fun beach getaway…but I’d not been prepared for love at first sight. Over a decade has passed since that first visit and my love affair has only intensified, especially now that I’m writing. I created the fictional Cape Cod town of Whale Rock as the setting for my book, THE LIGHTERMAN’S CURSE, just so I could spend time there, even if only in my imaginary world of words. But this humble and aspiring writer is only one of a multitude of artistic types who have found inspiration for their creations in the great natural beauty of the Cape.
In the 1800’s Henry David Thoreau described the nearby Outer Beach this way: “A man may stand there and put all America behind him.” Even though development has dramatically changed the landscape during the following centuries, I agree with his sentiments. When I’m there I can forget about the rest of the world for a bit.
The Outer Beach is also where naturalist writer Henry Beston claimed refuge. In the 1920’s he designed a beach cottage atop a dune overlooking the open Atlantic which he called Fo’castle because it gave him the feeling of being aboard a ship. (For the nautically disinclined, forecastle is any sailors’ quarters located in the forward part of a vessel.) There he gathered experiences for his book, THE OUTERMOST HOUSE, which described year-round life on the shore of Cape Cod, including the endurance of some harrowing storms. Beston is considered one of the fathers of the modern environmental movement and his book a motivating factor behind the preservation of the Cape Cod seashore. Fortunately, his writings influenced many conservationists: “Touch the earth, love the earth, her plains, her valleys, her hills, and her seas; rest your spirit in her solitary places. For the gifts of life are the earth’s and they are given to all…”
Three decades later the Cape Cod National Seashore was established by President Kennedy as a measure to protect the increasingly popular area from over population and erosion. This national treasure encompasses nearly 40 miles of protected shoreline extending along the Atlantic-facing outer Cape, with pristine sandy beaches and dunes, salt marshes, ponds, woodlands and cliffs as evidence of the success of this preservation enactment. Eastham offers the official entrance with trails leading from the Salt Pond Visitor Center to Coast Guard Beach near the site where Beston’s Outermost House stood until 1978. Ironically, Fo’castle was claimed by the raging seas of a ferocious winter Nor’easter storm.
It is a must to trek out to Coast Guard Beach for the impressive views of the Atlantic ocean, to watch for the bobbing heads of seals and to take in the picturesque Nauset Light. The trail to the ocean winds through woodlands where one might spot a fox darting across the path and past the large glacial erratic known as Doane Rock before opening to marshes alive with wading birds and butterflies.
To quote Henry Beston again, “The seas are the heart’s blood of the earth.” And indeed what I find most enchanting is the ever changing seascape of Cape Cod Bay. With a west facing cottage we are witness to the dramatic tidal range of the bay, transforming the vista every few moments and rewarding us with breathtaking sunsets, strikingly different between the extreme low and high tides. It also makes for interesting beach walking among the tidal flats and pools scattered about at low tide, with the ebbing waters leaving their mark in uniquely beautiful striations in the sand. It’s a shame to disrupt Mother Nature’s art with our toes, but she’ll leave yet another fingerprint in the sand at the next low tide. And as the tide rises, the rhythm of the advancing water becomes a powerfully soothing hypnotic, especially at night as the lapping waves lull us to sleep.
I would be remiss not mentioning one of Eastham’s interesting historic distinctions. A short stroll down the beach from our cottage is First Encounter Beach, named so as it was the site of the first meeting between the native Nauset tribe and the Pilgrims.
Unspoiled beauty, flora and fauna, a rich historic heritage…the Cape offers more than we could hope for in a beach getaway. And the moment the Eastham Windmill comes into sight my heart leaps knowing I’m just moments away from my lovely, peaceful Cape Cod retreat.
How wonderful that you have found a place that speaks to the writer and conservationist that you are. Thanks for sharing it through you Musing — and welcome back!
As much as my heart leaps when I arrive at the Cape, departing always makes me a little sad for a day or two. And then I wake up to the fact that Bristol is also beautiful with much to offer and I’m lucky to live here year round…and be closer to friends like you 🙂
Loretta,
you’ve made me long to spend some time on Cape Cod! This summer I had the pleasure of a weekend spent on Martha’s Vineyard, and even that short time away transported me like a true vacation should. It’s magical!
Keep going!
Lucky you! I’ve never been to “The Vineyard” but hope to go someday. Looking forward to Uncorked! Thanks for all your hard work.
Loretta, So wonderful that you have fallen love with the Cape. Its really Al’s most beautiful place to visit. We both enjoy all of your work, keep up the good work. See you soon. Love Pat 🙂
We’ll have to plan a Cape Cod getaway together one day! Thanks for your kind words. Looking forward to seeing you and Al soon!
Welcome back! I missed having you in the neighborhood, but once you shared the picture of the sunset from your cottage I couldn’t help but being just a tad jealous.
It certainly is an inspiring place and I hope you were able to get a lot written. I’m excited to hear all!
Thanks! Looking forward to seeing you once I’m out from under the mountain of laundry ~ the only down side of being at the Cape for two weeks. 😉 And missing friends!
Wow, Loretta–if the publishing world is crazy enough to ignore your wonderful books, you have a second career as a photographer–fabulous photos! Thanks for all of the history–I can’t to visit the Cape again. Cia
My biggest fan! Last time you were there we walked right past Henry Beston’s Outermost House. Raising a glass of Tukulu to the next visit.
We were on the Cape a couple weeks ago, you capture it beautifully! I hope to read the Lighterman’s Curse soon!
Did we just miss you? Darn! Thanks for visiting the site, Rachel! As for The Lighterman’s Curse…I hope so, too!
When you write about the Cape…I long to go and experience what you see and write about. The beauty of the area. Someday…I hope. I am really enjoying the beautiful pictures; keep them coming for all of us that must enjoy the Cape through your writings!!
I’m glad you enjoyed it. You must visit the Cape one day…maybe for a Diva reunion??
The world seemed to visit the Cape while you were just visiting…always, always enjoy your sunsets.
I look forward to a visit to Whale Rock and share your love of such a beautiful area.
Thank you for once again relaying your vision in words!
Would love to show you the inspiration for Whale Rock one day! You’d love it there…
Loretta,
A wonderful tribute to Cape Cod in prose and photographs. Thanks for sharing it. As a bit of Cape historical trivia, you might (or more likely might not) be intrigued to know that The “Battle of Orleans” took place on July 21, 1918, off Nauset Beach when the German U Boat U-156 surfaced and shelled a tug boat (the 140 foot Perth Amboy, which sank), four barges, and the town of Orleans itself. This was the only enemy action to take place on American soil during WW I. Perhaps if your writing muse ever takes you in a historical direction you can write a book on this little known Cape Cod conflict, although it would be a necessarily short book since the battle was rather short lived.
Mr. Caballero – I did not know about the Battle of Orleans of WWI and I thank you for edifying me and other visitors to the site. This prompted me to google it for more information…and did you know there was another Battle of Orleans a little over a century earlier during the War of 1812? It involved the townspeople of Orleans fighting against a small force of British marines intent on burning the village. I haven’t perused the entire account but there is a monument at the probable site. Please read up on this and report back to me.
Loretta, those pictures are stunning, and make me wish I were making a trip north! So glad it was productive.
Come on up! So excited for the release of your latest book, THE WEDDING SOUP MURDER!
What gorgeous pictures. Haven’t been to a beach for so long, almost forgot how beautiful & tranquil they are. Just read that the Cape is Meredith Vieira’s favorite place to be. She referred to the Cape as a scruffy place (hard to believe), but only I think as a comparison to the Hamptons . She doesn’t fit in there. Thanks for the reminders. Fun readings. I do enjoy.
So glad to see your message, Greta. You need to plan a beach getaway soon. I’ve never been to the Hamptons but I think I can guess what she means. At the Cape everything is relaxed…including the dress code!
Loretta, thanks for your Cape Cod Comments. The next time you venture out, may I suggest you visit Woods Hole. Stay at the Sand of Time to get the full flavor of Woods Hole. Find Church St. and walk down to the wonderful beach. Don’t tell anyone about it.
When I attended Tabor in the 60s (my, I’m old), my parents would visit me and sometimes we would go to Woods Hole. Of interest: one of Buckminister Fuller’s geodesic domes. I think it is still there. Tell us something about Bucky. I met him once. He lectured occasionally at the University of Colorado in the sixties. He was a brilliant and charming individual. How strange to find one of his “buildings” on the Cape.
http://99percentinvisible.org/episode/episode-64-derelict-dome/
Also, I overheard some ladies talking about some guy named Jeff (or was it Geoff) who gave a really entertaining lecture in Bristol recently at some historical building. They compared him to Samuel Clemens. What do you know of this person? Does he exist?
Dick
I believe we visited Woods Hole when another Jeff (or was it Geoff) graduated from Tabor. And did we not stay at the Sands of Time? The photo on the website certainly looks familiar. I remember James Taylor crooning during the Commencement ceremony and Carly Simon buzzing about at the festivities. And…and…we were seated in the row behind none other than Geraldo Rivera. All these details I remember, but I do not recall the Buckminster Fuller geodesic dome…so I will have to return! As for the Samuel Clemens Doppelganger? I will keep an eye out. Thanks for visiting my website and for your delightful reply!
Very interesting post and great pictures. I visited the Cape for many summers in my younger days and was not aware of much of the history you wrote about. I am now even more anxious to read “The Lightermn’s Curse”. My interest is definitely piqued! Hope to see it in book stores soon.
Wouldn’t that be wonderful! Thank you for your encouraging thoughts, Meredith!
I share your love of the Cape. We were just in Eastham a few weeks ago…sorry we missed you! Whale Rock sounds like the perfect setting for a novel. Can’t wait to sit on the beach with a copy of The Lighterman’s Curse!
Yes, it would have been great to spend time with you in Eastham. I must agree, The Lighterman’s Curse would be a perfect beach read for a getaway to the Cape. My agent is working hard on it! I’ll keep you posted. Thanks for stopping by the website.
When conservation in an area is successful, the top predators on the food chain return. When I see in the news all the Great White sharks along the Cape, I know that Kennedy’s plan was successful when he established the Cape Cod National Sea Shore exactly 10 years before I was born (in August of 1961.
Thanks for stopping, Jocko…and reminding us of your date of birth. BTW Happy Birthday! I’m sure Thoreau and Beston would also be pleased to see the return of the Great Whites…although Thoreau was blessed to have never observed any of the development that was beginning to encroach during Beston’s era. Speaking of top predators…are those Great Whites eating all your fish?
Loretta. Your wonderful description of the Cape makes we wish I had time for an eastward journey this fall. There’s nothing like those mid-September days where the sun still warms the beach, while the swelling winds begin to pique your anticipation of winter storms to come. This natural setting combined with the region’s pre and post-colonial history make for a storied and surreal backdrop for a novel. Fine choice!
Jamie! I was so excited to see a message from you. I guess that jealous mistress won’t let you leave sunny California for a New England autumn (my favorite time of the year). I’ll be eager to hear how the new law practice is keeping you busy. Thanks for visiting my webstie…stop back again briefly…between briefs. 😉
Your wonderful descriptions & photos make us long for a Cape Cod getaway. Jim & I used to go to Eastham to visit a college friend back in the early 70s. I’ll have to tell you the story of our first pet, Sky, & his visit to the Eastham seashore. Now we are too busy in Maine to enjoy other places in the summer. Emily, however, just visited the Cape a few weeks ago. It made us want to go again & SO DID YOU!!! Thanks for sending the link to your website. We will seek your other writings.
So nice of you to visit the website, Kathy! Looking forward to hearing the Sky story. So many people I’ve run into lately or who’ve visited the site have Eastham memories or associations. Your area is magnificent in its own way. I’m not sure I’d want to leave the beauty of the Maine coast in the summer. Thanks for stopping by and hope to see you back again soon!
Loretta, Your recommendation of searching for the seals at Coast Guard Beach was spot on! We so enjoyed watching groups of them in their natural habitat, an unusual treat not to be missed, which would have been had you not informed us! Reading about the coast through your eyes and words makes me long to be there again. Thanks for the memories!
So glad you didn’t miss that wonderful sighting! It’s always good to see your name pop up on the website. Thanks so much!
Oh, Loretta. I do miss you when you disappear to the Cape, but now with the
aesthetics revealed through your prose and fantastic pics of the Cape, I feel I’m there. What a pleasure! Cheryl Z-Stern
It is a beautiful place to escape…and write! As always, thank you for your comments and your support, Cheryl!